AN AFTERNOON UP THE COAST OF SJÆLLAND

Even if you're only in Copenhagen for a short time, make a point of exploring the posh and beautiful beach towns that run north of the city up the coast as far north as Helsingør, which lies just across Ørsund (The Sound) from Sweden. These towns are easily reached by car or by train, and the major sites along this 30-mile excursion lie within easy walking distance of the train stations.
If you've only time for one attraction, especially if you're an aficionado of contemporary art and design, make every possible effort to visit the Louisiana Museum of Modern Art in exclusive Humlebæk. It has exceptional rotating exhibitions throughout the year as well as a provocative permanent collection. The cafe here is excellent, too, as is the two-level museum shop. And from the sculpture-dotted grounds you can stare out across water toward Sweden. The work of openly gay artist David Hockney will be shown October 2001 through the end of January 2002.
From Louisiana, continue north 12 miles to reach Helsingør, an attractive community from which ferry boats sail to Sweden. Helsingør far more famous as the site of Konborg Castle, the massive, late-1500s castle that provided the setting for William Shakespeare's Hamlet. On your return drive or train ride back to Copenhagen, stop by Rungstedlund, the former estate of Out of Africa author Karen Blixen (a.k.a. Isak Dinesen). Now a museum, it contains memorabilia, manuscripts, and furnishings from her life, and it's surrounded by lovely gardens. A bit south of here in the village of Klampenborg, you can end this trip with dinner at the see-and-be-seen Restaurant Jacobsen, a culinary tribute (created in the 1930s) to the master of Danish design. The restaurant has been restored to Jacobsen's original designs and styles, and it offers a splendid menu of creative Danish cooking.

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