From its beginnings as a gay rights demonstration in 1978 Sydney’s Mardi Gras has grown into a month-long season of assorted arts.

Running alongside Mardi Gras is the Film Festival. What started as a sideshow has become a main event all of its own. Presented by Queer Screen from February 11–22, the programme promises a fortnight of sex, fun, irreverence, tenderness and drama. There’s a hundred-plus films from around the world to view. Check www.queerscreen.com.au.

Then there are the perennial favs: Fair Day, the Parade and the Party.

Held in Victoria Park (cnr City/Paramatta Rds) Fair Day is a free community event featuring cabaret, DJs, stalls, crafts, games, sports and entertainment for all the extended family. Bring the kids, bring the dogs and bring a picnic.

Billed as a powerful civil rights march and the biggest game of dress-up ever played, the Parade delivers dazzling satire and outrageous celebration. Thousands of participants from around Australia and overseas will march, dance and generally whoop it up in the name of love, pride and acceptance.

Starts Liverpool/Elizabeth Sts, up Oxford, along Flinders, ending Fox Studios.

SYDNEY SIGHTS

One of the most successful additions to Sydney's "must do" list is BridgeClimb. So get your gear on, strap up, and join a small group climb over the top of the ultimate Sydney icon, the Harbour Bridge. The views are to die for. Contact BridgeClimb on 61-2-8274 7777.

You can't come to Sydney and not enjoy lunch while gazing out over the Pacific at Bondi Beach. Bondi's main drag, Campbell Parade, is lined with cafes and restaurants: try Sean's Panorama at the northern end; Yulla or Fu Manchu at the southern end. By the way, alcohol is no longer allowed on the beach itself. After lunch, go for a walk along the cliffs to Sydney's gay beach, Tamarama, renamed Glamarama in honour of the beautiful people.

It may not be an obvious choice, but as a Norwegian visitor put it "leaving Australia without trying to surf is like visiting Norway and not going skiing." And where better to have your first surfing lesson than at Bondi Beach? The local surf school caters for beginners who have never ridden a board before, and for £16 provides boards, wetsuits, and two hours of friendly tuition in small groups of about six. The experience is loads of fun, and those wet suits can be very sexy. Contact Let's Go Surfing on 61-2-9365 1800.

CLUBBING & BARS

The Colombian (cnr Oxford/Crown) is the new bar on the block, and for many, has fast become the place to hang. Attracts punters almost as fabulous as the décor. It’s oh so trendy it hurts.

The busiest and most notorious of Sydney’s gay bars is the Midnight Shift (85 Oxford St). Folklore has it there’s more beer sunk here than in any other city bar – most probably due to the fact the place somehow manages to be open more hours than there are in a day. The club above packs ‘em in of a weekend. Don’t feed the fish.

A hop and skip away is the Stonewall Hotel (175 Oxford St). Expect gelled hair and spanky shirts. Main bar has live shows and hot food on the go. Funk lounge and dance space on the floors above. Watch your head.

The Oxford (134 Oxford St) has been around forever, although these days it’s half the place it was. Since refurbishment, 50% of the bar space has disappeared, clearing the way for pokie machines. Friday nights are for those into the bear necessities.

Formerly the Barracks, the emphasis at Manacle (Patterson Lane, Taylor Sq) remains much the same, men. There’s a leather/fetish flavour to the place but management insists all-cumers are welcome.

Arq (16 Flinders St) rules. Upstairs you’ll find wildebeests of brawn strutting to beats. Down below there’s more groove than corrugated iron. Over 30s will appreciate the soft furnishings; acting laid back couldn’t be easier.

If Darlinghurst gets too much, head to Newtown, where not so long ago shoes were optional. These days the grunge ghetto has smartened up its act. And as the Newtown Hotel (174 Kings St) testifies, it’s not necessarily a good thing. Once an unpretentious space, today the Newtown attracts boys wearing beanies in the middle of summer. To its credit, the Newtown is one of a dwindling number of venues to showcase drag. Pool-bar out back, a lounge upstairs.

In nearby Erskineville you’ll find the Imperial Hotel (35 Erskineville Rd). Still milking its ‘Priscilla’ cachet, the show bar can be a bit of a tourist trap. As for the main bar, it attracts such eclectic clientele it’s known as the ‘Star Wars’ bar. A room the size of a beer-mat acts as a cabaret bar. Downstairs there’s a no-frills dance space. Despite being billed by new management as four venues in one, the only real change is a door charge.

DOWN UNDER'N'DIRTY

Being Sydney, there’s also a beach scene to explore. Obelisk, Tamarama, Lady Jane and La Perouse are all good for a cruise.

Above is just a microcosm of the mischief to be had. As you’d expect from the party-pig capital of the Southern Hemisphere, Sydney’s scene is full-on and in-your-face. Expect to be chewed up and spat out. It's also very easy-going. Australians are famous for their "no-worries" attitude (particularly once the Tassie’s kicked in). They’re also unconcerned about a person's class. And trust me, when it comes to Oxford Street the less you have the more at home you'll feel.

WHERE TO STAY

THE LITTLE BLACK BOOK